There’s dry-aged steak, and then there’s really dry-aged steak. When meat has been properly aged for about three weeks, its muscles begin to break down and they lose moisture, resulting in a more tender steak with a more concentrated flavor. But after that? Get a steak to 28 days or so, and things start to get interesting. Flavors that could be described as “blue cheese,” “nutty” and “funky” start to come out. And the longer it’s aged, the more intense these flavors become.
Recently in New York City, we’re starting to see steaks aged longer and longer — upwards of the 30 or 40 days that used to be cap. Here are five of the best super-aged steaks in New York City.
Marea: 50 days
Michael White’s Marea may specialize in seafood and pasta, but there’s just as much attention paid to the meat. His grilled Creekstone 50-day dry aged sirloin is seared and then slathered in butter with rosemary and garlic; a bone marrow panzanella (essentially bread soaked in liquified bone marrow) comes alongside. 240 Central Park South; 212-582-5100; marea-nyc.com
Carbone: 60 days
Order the 60-day porterhouse at wildly popular new Italian supper club Carbone, and it’s presented to you raw tableside — at which point, you can choose to have the fillet prepared raw as a tartare, and the rest of the steak grilled, or just go for the whole thing on the grill. When cooked, it’s grilled over both coal and gas. 181 Thompson St.; 212-933-0707; carbonenewyork.com
S Prime Steakhouse: 60 days
This steakhouse in Queens, run by Joel Reiss, a veteran of many NYC steakhouses, features steaks that are treated in the restaurant’s own aging room — his signature is a Creekstone rib steak that’s aged 60 days. 35-15 36th St., Queens; 718-707-0660; sprimenyc.com
Osteria Morini: 120 days (special)
While Morini’s “standard” steak is an impressive 32-ounces of prime strip that’s been aged 28 days, the restaurant occasionally has a mind-blowing special: 120-day aged rib eye, served as carpaccio or pan-seared as a steak. While it’s not always on the menu, when you can get it it’s the single oldest full steak in New York. 218 Lafayette St.; 212-965-8777; osteriamorini.com
Eleven Madison Park: 140 days (on some tasting menus)
In Eleven Madison’s tasting menu, diners get only one choice: duck or steak. And if you choose steak, you’re in for a rare thing indeed: a 140-day aged rib eye. Early in the meal, the steak fat itself is served alongside bread, taking the place of butter; later, a broth made from the bones; and later still, the ribeye cooked two ways, some much longer for a real crisp, some quickly for a rare presentation. 11 Madison Ave.; 212-889-0905; elevenmadisonpark.com