A new “new Nordic” rolled into town this past November when Aamanns-Copenhagen quietly opened in Tribeca. Immediately drawing a local following for his smorrebrod, traditional Danish open-faced rye bread sandwiches, chef Carl Kristian Frederiksen has now broken beyond the bread to unveil the new dinner menu.
His stand-alone take on beef tartare ($19), usually a smorrebrod topping, shines like the midnight sun. Intense layers of flavor and texture permeate raw, prime-quality Piedmontese beef with a blend of smooth egg emulsion, salty capers, slightly sweet shallots, sharp tarragon, bracing whole grain mustard, and a gentle lacing of olive oil and pepper. Tiny fingerling potato chips add a gratifying crunch while a garnish of cornichons bring an extra acidic zing.
Chef Frederiksen, like all of the furnishings in the white-washed space, was imported straight from Scandinavia to build on the menu created by noted Copenhagen chef Adam Aamann. True to its homeland, the restaurant includes 20 different house-infused aquavits, with flavorings from dill parsley to cumin plum. Diners can also take pieces of Denmark home along with them: the restaurant also sells pickled items (such as beets) and terrific homemade rye bread to-go.
13 Laight St.