The most elegant burger in town since the db burger–that foie gras and truffle-stuffed delicacy served at Daniel Boulud’s DB Bistro Moderne–is delivered with a knife and fork, by a waiter wearing a tuxedo.
Le Perigord’s just-launched beef Wellington burger ($18) transforms one classic dish into another. Executive chef Joel Benjamin mixes the beef, a lean prime chuck from Gachot & Gachot (also the favorite purveyors of Peter Luger), with clarified fat of foie gras, sautéed shallots, and a mix of oyster, porcini and shiitake mushrooms. The beef blend is then seared to seal in the juices. In lieu of a bun, Benjamin surrounds the meat with puff pastry, then bakes the dish until the meat is medium rare and the pastry a flaky golden brown. Served with rich truffle jus and haricot vert, the result is a succulent, luxurious, retro-meets-modern indulgence.
The burger, which was added to the a la carte lunch and dinner menu just last week, marks a landmark for the restaurant: This is the first time in Le Perigord’s 49-year history that one has appeared on the menu. Known for its classic French cooking, dignified service and table-side presentations, it may take some time for some of Le Perigord’s regulars to get used to the new addition, offered alongside signature dishes such as Dover sole meuniere ($50). No doubt, however, this burger is poised to win a new breed of loyalists on its own.
405 E. 52nd St.