At his new steakhouse in chichi TriBeCa, American Cut, Marc Forgione comes across as a young chef with an old soul, with several of his dishes paying homage to some of the truly great cooks and restaurants that preceded him.
Forgione’s bone marrow ($16), for example, is a nod to 21-year-old Blue Ribbon, the Sullivan Street original, where the dish endures as a late-night favorite of post-shift chefs. The impressive rib bone holds a deep gutter full of rich, melty marrow. This is also a heaping plate of technique: The bone is slow-roasted with garlic and sea salt; while the accompanying wild burgundy escargot are braised, then sautéed. A garnish of croquettes are made up of short ribs braised in red wine, then shredded, tossed with foie gras and heavy cream, then fried — a brilliant way to add crisp texture. A slice of crusty bread rubbed with olive oil is a simple but appropriate compliment.
American Cut, opened last week, is the second branch of Forgione’s Atlantic City original. The name honors Forgione’s dad, Larry, the celebrated “godfather of American cuisine,” and his influential restaurant, An American Place. Larry’s friend and collaborator, James Beard, the “dean of American cookery,” is honored on the marrow dish, which comes with an onion, shallot, flat parsley, celery leaf and radish salad that bears his name.
The entire menu celebrates American flavors, from the bread basket that hearkens to an “everything bagel” to the Texas toast that sops up the powerful sauce of chili lobster ($27). And among all the Americana, there’s room for Joel Robuchon’s famously creamy potato puree ($10).
Of course there are cuts of steak, too, practically an entire page of wet-aged and dry-aged. The steak sauce sits at each table in an apothecary bottle. Another sweet detail that displays a respect for the past.
363 Greenwich St.