Caviar Pie at Dover
A dish fit for the Borough of Kings
Well, isn’t Brooklyn getting all fancy?! According to a study by the Council for Community and Economic Research, the borough is the second most expensive place to live in America. (Manhattan is the first). Well, if you’re going to walk the walk, Brooklynites, then you’ve got to talk the talk.
It’s time to put away the spaghetti and meatballs and start appreciating the finer things in life, such as the caviar pie ($35) at Dover. Chefs Joseph Ogrodnek and Walker Stern preciously set shiny, black pearls of American paddlefish roe atop layers of chopped egg and a house-made cream spread. It’s a glistening round of briny luxury, served with buckwheat blini and toast points. Order a glass of bubbly with it; then indulge, enjoy and reflect on how long the BK has come since the days of Tony Manero.
Ogrodnek and Stern first introduced haute eats to Carroll Gardens at their original venture, Battersby, nearby. Whereas Battersby is small and bare-bones, Dover is larger, airier and appointed in an elegant, minimalist manner. On the menu, the opulence doesn’t end at the caviar, which is no surprise as the chef duo originally met while working at Alain Ducasse. There’s a rich lobster with tomato confit and salsify ($21/$36) and an elaborate chicken for two, garnished with black truffle ($65). The seven-course tasting menu, at $95, offers abundance at a fair price, however, which means the kitchen at Dover, as high-falutin’ as the neighborhood may get, never really forgets where it came from.