Tired of tuna? Sick of salmon? It’s time for a new tartar. Arctic char is the current raw pleasure at Greenwich Village’s Market Table ($17). The pleasantly pink, cold-water fish has a luxurious fat content like that of its cousin, salmon, with a flavor that skews more delicately.
It takes wonderfully to raw form in chef Mike Price’s preparation, served in an adorable little preserve jar. Clip open the lid, and dig into the layers of whipped avocado, diced fish, smoked roe and a sprinkling of fresh mint. Smooth it on to an accompanying waffle chip for a salty, crunchy, fresh and smoky starter.
While the tartar is currently available for lunch only, a cooked version of the fish, grilled with spring onion puree, grilled baby lettuces and ginger chive oil ($26), is offered on the dinner menu. Hot or cold, cooked or raw, char is a go-to pleasure when all other fish fail to excite.
54 Carmine St.