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Chestnut Tagliatelle at A Voce Madison

The kitchen at A Voce Madison was Andrew Carmellini’s landing ground just after he left Cafe Boulud, and then Missy Robbins put it on the Michelin map with a star during her term behind the stoves. In fall 2013, when young chef Ben Lee stepped in, he had some very big shoes to fill.

 

Chesnut tagliatelle at A Voce

Chesnut tagliatelle at A Voce (Photo: Evan Sung)

Dishes such as the chestnut tagliatelle with Perigord truffle ($58) show that Lee is certainly following in his predecessors’ footsteps. Delicious and uncomplicated, the earthy pasta is rich without being weighty, laced with butter and Parmesan and finished with a generous shaving of the black truffle. That’s it. “I like the simplicity of just a few ingredients,” chef Lee says. “It reminds me what struck me about Italian cuisine the first time I really began to study it: simplicity and precision.”

Opened in 2006, just off Madison Square Park, A Voce is also a favorite of truffle hunters for a unique cocktail: the Tartufo Speciale ($33) an aromatic blend of bourbon, black truffle-infused vermouth, Italian vermouth, black truffle syrup, bourbon honey and pickled black truffles — a concoction bound to become as legendary as the chefs who have graced the restaurant’s kitchen.

A Voce
41 Madison Ave.
212-545-8555
avocerestaurant.com

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