The kitchen at A Voce Madison was Andrew Carmellini’s landing ground just after he left Cafe Boulud, and then Missy Robbins put it on the Michelin map with a star during her term behind the stoves. In fall 2013, when young chef Ben Lee stepped in, he had some very big shoes to fill.
Dishes such as the chestnut tagliatelle with Perigord truffle ($58) show that Lee is certainly following in his predecessors’ footsteps. Delicious and uncomplicated, the earthy pasta is rich without being weighty, laced with butter and Parmesan and finished with a generous shaving of the black truffle. That’s it. “I like the simplicity of just a few ingredients,” chef Lee says. “It reminds me what struck me about Italian cuisine the first time I really began to study it: simplicity and precision.”
Opened in 2006, just off Madison Square Park, A Voce is also a favorite of truffle hunters for a unique cocktail: the Tartufo Speciale ($33) an aromatic blend of bourbon, black truffle-infused vermouth, Italian vermouth, black truffle syrup, bourbon honey and pickled black truffles — a concoction bound to become as legendary as the chefs who have graced the restaurant’s kitchen.
41 Madison Ave.