Connect With Us Connect With Us Newsletter Connect with us
 

Duck Confit at Piora

It's tough work to make a tender bird

“It is only through labor and painful effort … that we move on to better things,” Theodore Roosevelt once said. Perhaps that was chef Chris Cipollone’s mantra as he manipulated an old duck dish into a modern miracle for the palate at the recently opened West Village restaurant, Piora.

 

Duck Confit at Piora

Duck confit at Piora

If you thought it was impossible to improve upon a basic duck confit, take one bite of Cipollone’s version ($14) with earl grey, plum and cucumber. The method behind his marvel is certainly arduous: first, the duck is cured and then cooked in duck fat. The legs are skinned, and the meat pulled. The skin is roasted separately until it is rendered into a crumble. The shredded meat, meanwhile, is blended with duck jus and rolled into a torchon. It is chilled, sliced, breaded and then fried, before served as a crispy round with an earl grey tea-infused prune puree and fresh plum. Celery, cucumber, shiso leaves, and the crumble finish the plate. The sensation: a crunchy crust leads into soft meat, with the bitter fruitiness of the tea sauce balancing the salt, while the herbaceous leaves bring the dish down to earth. The chef gets an A not only for effort, but for flavor and texture, too.

Cipollone came from Midtown’s Tenpenny when Piora opened in late July. He promises that the menu will be oft-changing at his new spot, and we’ll be waiting to see what else he’ll be working at this winter.

Piora
430 Hudson St.
212-960-3801
pioranyc.com

Popular Buys

Popular Reads

  • How the Grinch Stole Christmas! The Musical

    10 of NYC's Hottest Holiday Shows for 2014

    Read More
  • Macaulay Culkin lives it up at The Plaza in ‘Home Alone 2: Lost in New York’ (Photo: 21st Century Fox)

    8 NYC Places Made Famous by Holiday Movies

    Read More
  • Rockefeller Center Ice Skating Rink

    10 Top Ice Skating Rinks in New York City

    Read More
  • One If By Land, Two If By Sea

    New York City's Top 10 Most Romantic Restaurants

    Read More
  • Watch: 5 Surprising Secrets of Rockefeller Center

    Read More