It seems like a shame that Malt n Mash, the intimate Meatpacking District global gastropub is merely a placeholder — a pop-up with a small plates menu only intended to last until the year’s end. The shames lies in the fact that chef Nahid Ahmed’s menu is one of the more engaging to debut this year. One dish that will be particularly mourned: foie gras with peanut butter and chipotle ($19). The smoothness of the foie mingles luxuriously with creamy peanut butter before being rolled in brioche breadcrumbs, combining to make a grown-up “PB& F.” A smear of chipotle adds a spirited kick, while a smattering of apricot jam lends fruity balance.
Opened in August, the pop-up is a test kitchen of sorts for Ahmed, who is developing a larger menu for the forthcoming Forty Four Acres, opening next door in November. So there is hope: If that foie gras — along with some of the more popular dishes, such as sweetbreads with negro mole and popcorn grits ($16) — gets enough love before Malt n Mash disappears, there’s a good chance they will find a permanent home on the menu next door.
Malt n Mash
53-61 Gansevoort St.