Why does apple pie get all the credit for being patriotic? Fried chicken is just as quintessentially American, not to mention the perfect Independence Day eat. Chef Harold Moore’s version ($17) at Commerce is full of flavor fireworks, with a light, crispy, pleasantly-salty batter coating extraordinarily moist meat. Served with a buttery biscuit and creamy coleslaw, the dish is available at lunch and brunch Friday through Sunday. In a cute flourish, it comes wrapped in old paper menus. Keep in mind that its popularity can sometimes cause the brilliant birds to run out by weekend’s end. There is a strategy to remedy that, however: Moore is planning a fried-chicken-only spot to open on Bedford Street within the next year.
Opened in early 2008, Commerce is the collaboration of Moore (ex-Montrachet, Daniel and Jean-Georges), and NYC restaurant vet Tony Zazula, whose resume includes Tavern on the Green, the Rainbow Room and Windows on the World. Set on a charming bend of a West Village street, Commerce thrives as a neighborhood favorite. There’s another chicken on the menu that has won fast fans, too: the whole roasted chicken for two, with vegetables and truffled potato puree ($32 per person). Both are finger-lickin’ great.
50 Commerce St.