When temperature fluctuations have many New Yorkers feeling fluish, there’s no better time for a dose of Jewish penicillin, aka a good, honest chicken soup. Chef Amanda Freitag’ s version at Empire Diner ($8) adds a fluffy matzoh ball sitting atop a marrow bone, and the result is a miracle drug in a dish. The marrow melts into the broth, lacing it with an unctuous richness, while root vegetables and strands of poached chicken amp up the comfort factor. This dish should be doctor’s orders all winter long.
The diner’s art moderne façade has been a Chelsea icon since it was constructed in 1946. It ceased serving greasy spoon grub, however, when Freitag’s revamp debuted in January 2014. Her offering of reinvented classics, just slightly refined, includes mac and cheese ($10) made with creamy orzo and truffle butter, and an oyster pan roast ($16) dotted with pork belly. When its round-the-clock service kicks in, the comforting fare will be available 24-7, something to keep in mind the next time you’re feeling under the weather. It sure beats heading to the pharmacy in the middle of the night.
210 10th Ave.