Mussels at Annisa
Behold the power of three
According to a recent study, the power of persuasion relies on making a point in triplicate. Chef Anita Lo seems to agree. Take a look at her menu at Annisa: Three ingredients — no more, no less — enhance memorable dishes such as hearts of palm (with lilies, blood orange and Szechuan peppercorn sauce, $34) and grilled filet of wild striped bass (accompanied by summer beans, bottarga and charred lemon, $36). But the most awesome threesome in her repertoire has to be the mussels and chickpeas with Spanish flavors ($18).
Bivalves served three ways include a raw preparation brightened with lemon, pink sea salt and paprika; grilled atop a black chickpea puree that plays up the sea with squid ink and mussel juice, jazzed by hot pepper and chorizo; and deep-fried rounds crusted in chickpea and wheat flour, garnished with a jalapeño salsa verde and lemon aioli.
A West Village staple since 2000, Lo’s latest menu certainly has compelled the palate of Mr. Pete Wells, the New York Times dining critic. In his recent re-review, he upgraded Annisa from two stars to that persuasively magic number: three.