There are chefs, and then there are culinary artists. Michelin-starred Shaun Hergatt is definitely the latter and Juni in Murray Hill is his atelier. Just one example of his use of a dish as a palette for the palate is his quail “black spice earth tones,” ($40), a highlight of the oft-changing seasonal menu.
A delicately (and delectably) prepared quail is accompanied by an abstractly textured trio of beet tartare, beet tuile and beet powder. The plate is also painted with rich foie gras jus, adding depth to the meat and an opulent counterpoint to the sweetness of the beets. There’s a zesty presence of mustard in the meat, too, along with an attractive and crunchy sliver of skin. The composition of sweet, tart, acid and salt compose a perfect portrait of autumn.
Opened in August, Juni is Hergatt’s eagerly anticipated follow-up to his much-acclaimed SHO Shaun Hergatt, which closed last year. Tasting menus are available in four ($90), six ($120) and 10 ($180) courses. While the prices may not be fit for starving artists, art lovers will delight as much in the flavors as Hergatt’s creative, and quite beautiful, presentations.
12 E 31st St.