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Rabbit at Mihoko’s 21 Grams

A rare, nose-to-tail presentation of hare

Remember fusion cuisine? It’s back … at least at this eclectic Franco-Japanese eatery in the Flatiron. When was the last time you enjoyed sushi within a 19th century maison setting? Or a savory, truffled blanc manger paired with sake? It’s all possible, and modernly composed, at Mihoko’s 21 Grams by chef Charles Le Tous.

 

Monsieur Lapin at Mihoko's 21 Grams

Monsieur Lapin dish, or rabbit many ways (Photo: Francesco Tonelli/Mihoko’s 21 Grams)

The chef, who recently joined the team at the 1½ year-old restaurant, offers two omakase ($150) options: one leans more heavily on his native France, and the other is driven by sushi. And while dishes such as Wagyu tartare sushi satisfy, there’s a particular dish on the French side that really wows: a dainty assemblage of rabbit cooked many ways. Le Tous, who says his grandfather used to raise rabbits, has dubbed the dish “Monsieur Lapin.” It is made up of a tiny, tender rack of ribs; a juicy loin; a rich round of pate made from the offal; and braised legs in a crusty little pie. The remaining bones are used to make the jus, while a smear of mustard adds a classic French accoutrement. A small, fat carrot and Brussels sprouts round out the Gallic presentation.

Mihoko Kiyokawa is the restaurant’s owner and spiritual guide; a Japanese Renaissance woman who is a holistic nutritionist, PhD, former ballerina and costume designer. The decor — crystal candelabras, quilted chairs, an etched Cartier mirror, and the hall of Asian teapots leading to the host stand — reflects her varied interests and the wide-ranging menu.

Mihoko’s 21 Grams
16 W 22nd St.
212-741-0021
mihokos21grams.com

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