Every country has its tricks for cooking the perfect chicken. The French are enamored of the rotisserie; American barbecue fanatics like to stuff the bird with a can of beer. And the Tuscans like to weigh it down with a brick before roasting.
The Fourth chef/owner Marco Moreira goes global with his pink salt “brick” roasted Amish country chicken ($24). A pink Himalayan salt crust on an American bird coaxes the same results as the Tuscan brick-chick: moist meat with a thin, crispy skin and a brightly brackish flavor. Served on a wooden cutting board with a salad of watercress and Napa cabbage, this chicken is an emblem of the restaurant’s universally appealing brasserie fare.
Moreira and co-owner/wife Jo-Ann Makovitzky are a worldly pair. He hails from Brazil; she’s a native New Yorker. Their first restaurant, the highly regarded Tocqueville, leans into French territory, while their second, 15 East, is one of the few Michelin-starred sushi dens in town. Opened in May within the Hyatt Union Square, The Fourth marks their first foray into American cuisine.
A note to the restaurant opening chasers: Just under the unusual art centerpiece — floating wooden bed frames — a staircase leads to their upcoming collaboration: Botequim, which will nod to Moreira’s South American heritage, coming in the fall.
132 Fourth Ave.