There’s a reason many restaurants serving rotisserie chicken showcase the bird as part of the decor. Whether in a fine French brasserie or Chinatown dive, the sight of the birds, browning as they turn, dripping with fat, is a mouthwatering allure.
At Rotisserie Georgette, the rotisserie chicken ($24), featured behind a glassed-in wall like a work of art, is the main attraction. And artful it is, with tawny skin just crisp enough and meat succulent with juice. Diners can enhance it with three sauces: aromatic Provencal, with herbes de Provence and garlic; a piquant Diable, with tomato, tarragon and paprika; and the rich Grand Mere, with red wine, mushrooms and bacon.
Other meats on the spinner include a Peking duck breast ($32) and lamb loin ($32); and, if you’re planning ahead for a party of six (72 hours notice required), order up a feast of suckling pig ($450 for six) or leg of lamb ($225 for six). But there is much more to the lovely decor than the rotisserie. Azulejo tiles depict various fowl and other ornamentations; dark wood tones bring coziness to the room; and girder columns allow a touch of industrial chic.
Opened in November, Rotisserie Georgette is Georgette Farkas’ dream realized, after years spent as Daniel Boulud’s publicist. Executive chef David Malbequi also has roots in the Boulud empire, and his fine touch goes beyond the rotisserie, with a selection of well-composed salads, such as the Francine ($18), with arugula, artichoke hearts, wax beans and Parmesan crisps in a carrot-coriander vinaigrette. Pastry chef Sohla El-Waylly’s special brown butter parfait ($14) is so delicious that it, too, should be featured lusciously rotating in a window.