How to know it’s really summer: sweet, sweet corn. And Daruma-ya is giving it the tempura treatment ($8), with sections sliced right off the cob, lightly battered and deep fried until crunchy. A sprinkle of ichimi chili pepper balances the corn’s innate sugar with some punchy pizzazz.
It’s the perfect seasonal snack, exemplary of the izakaya (Japanese small plates) portion of the menu at this Tribeca newcomer. The other part of the menu is devoted to soba, hot ($11-$25) and — also perfect for summer palates — cold ($13-24), each made with the highest grade of buckwheat and garnished with everything from duck breast to sea urchin. Perhaps the best bet, however, is to go for the Daruma-ya set, 9 plates at $115 for two people, which offers a generous sampling of chef Nobuhito Dosei’s best bites.
Opened in April 2014, Daruma-ya is perched on top of its Michelin-starred cousin, Sushi Azabu. It is named for a Japanese wishing doll that helps the possessor achieve his or her goals. So, if your aspiration happens to be the pursuit of some of the city’s finest Japanese cuisine, and endless summer flavors, look no further than the giant doll perched outside the front door.
428 Greenwich St.