Tuna Tartare at All’onda
Cultural collision revives an all-too-common dish
Yes, tuna tartare has been done to death. But All’onda chef Chris Jaeckle breathes new life into it with his version ($17), a combination of two cultures. The result is what happens when an izakaya (a Japanese small-plates tavern) meets Italy: an exciting, mostly Mediterranean, flavor explosion.
In a round of salt, spice, acid and freshness, cubes of pristine sushi-grade tuna are graced with preserved tomato, black olives and the wham of fresh wasabi. The rest of the menu follows suit. There’s miso in those razor clams with sopressata ($15), and the polenta tucked under the monkfish is made creamier with uni ($28).
Opened in January just off Union Square, All’onda bills itself as “modern Venetian cuisine,” as the menu does skew more to the east of Italy than the Far East. We think that The New York Times critic Pete Wells described it best, however, in his recent two-star review: “It’s as if an Italian menu had a raging crush on Japan and couldn’t stop bringing it up in conversation.” We’re excited for Jaeckle to keep that gushing dialog going.
22 East 13th St.